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Once again I have to post something because people of the modern era have no idea about mechanics, they have electronics so far up there arses and common sense is not common these days.
It is not my job to oil your knives, just like it is not the job of the guy that sells you a chain saw, a motorcycle or a car to oil them, so don't be rude and cry about something that is standard and normal maintenance. I do ship knives oiled sometimes, but with air travel and temperature oils do change viscosity, so let things come to acceptable temperatures before you open them.
An automatic switchblade flick knife needs to be oiled to keep the mechanism working.
KNIVES WILL NOT OPEN CORRECTLY MOST TIMES DUE TO FRICTION AND THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE.
Oiling your knife is not complicated but it is essential to your knifes maintenance.
SO APPLY SOME FORM OF LUBRICANT TO THE PIVOT SCREW AND THE FOLDING AREA OF THE KNIFE AND EVEN THE BUTTON FOR SIDE OPENING MODELS.
Open your knife. Look at the blade. Get yourself some knife oil.
KNIVES LOVE LUBRICANTS, THEY WILL PERFORM BETTER, LAST LONGER, AND LOVE YOU FOR CARING.
Any 3 in one type oil will work.
Learning basics of knife maintenance is a must for any knife enthusiast or collector.
A well oiled knife will give you years and years of service
OILING AN OTF - OUT THE FRONT KNIFE:
OPEN THE KNIFE AND LUBE UP THE BASE OF THE SHAFT, OR CLOSE THE KNIFE AND LUBE UP THE CHANNEL, THIS WAY IT HELPS THE IN AND OUT ACTION.
ZIPPO lighter fluid is great to clean and also lubricate an OTF knife, oil that is to thick can cause problems and do more harm than good, it attracts dirt to the channel and causes slower openings. Over the years, using Zippo lighter fluid we have found that it not only cleans out the dirt it also has just enough lubrication qualities to enable smooth action.
OILING AN ITALIAN STILETTO KNIFE:
PROBLEM: You push the button & nothing….. The botton will not press and the blade just stays there.
ANSWER: Press the blade closed even further and press the button and then allow the blade to come out. Close to the base of the blade you will see a small beveled hole in the blade, this is the hole where the trigger sear catches the blade to close it, there is too much friction on the trigger sear and the hole. Take your oil and put a couple drops in the oil hole, around the hole and around the pivot.
NO ONE LIKES A DRY HOLE, IT DOES NOT WORK WELL AND CAUSES DISCOMFORT.
PROBLEM: You push the button & the knife is firing slow, it opens but does not lock up open.
ANSWER: Take your oil and put a couple drops around the pivot and on the backspring where the lock engages the blade. Also if you have a SEX PIN model you can remove the pin and bend the spring so it has more force and then put it back into the knife.
REMEMBER IF YOU DON'T USE LUBE, IT WON'T LAST FOR LONG.
USE QUALITY LUBRICANT SUCH AS QUICKLUBE OR A GUN OIL WD40 IS NOT ADVISED TO USE.
WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
- 51% Stoddard solvent (In 1953 this was the predominant cleaning fluid used by dry cleaners.)
- 25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
- 15+% mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
- 10-% inert ingredients
WD40 WILL CAUSE MAJOR MALFUNCTIONS TO CERTAIN KNIVES.
THERE CAN BE CHEMICAL REACTIONS TO SPECIFIC METALS AND OPERATION OF AN AUTOMATIC CAN BE RENDERED USELESS IF YOU USE WD40 ON CERTAIN KNIVES.
WD40 IS FINE TO USE ON JUNK KNIVES AND CHEAP SHIT.
REPEAT DO NOT USE WD40 ON YOUR HIGH END KNIVES, USE QUICKLUBE OR SOME GUN LUBRICANT.
Items can break and malfunction when they are cold and not at operating temperature.
So calm down, take a breath and let things get warm, do not go playing with them right out of the mailbox.
Repeat you can very well damage and break things if you do not allow things to reach room termperatures.